Your browser (Internet Explorer 7 or lower) is out of date. It has known security flaws and may not display all features of this and other websites. Learn how to update your browser.

X

Carolyn of Handmade by Carolyn on Sewing and Style

I’m excited to introduce Carolyn of Handmade by Carolyn, sharing her thoughts on Sewing and Style. She set herself the task of wearing only clothing that she has personally made for this whole year. I’ve been excitedly watching her document her progress with her Paper Doll Project and now I’m thrilled to share her thoughts on the connection between her ability to sew and her style (and I can relate oh-so-well to her final statement “then it’s off to the fabric store” !).

Hello!  My name is Carolyn, and I live in Perth, Western Australia.  I make all my own clothes, and sometimes I make things for my family too.  They are gracious enough to actually wear those things too.  I have a blog Handmade by Carolyn, where I document all my handmade goings-on.

Describe your style.
Hmmm, it’s always hard to pinpoint your own style! But overall; I think maybe it can best be described as simple, natural and contemporary, with plain colours, clean lines and a slightly sporty vibe.  And I do like clothes that have a tiny touch of weirdness, a twist somewhere.

Describe what you sew.
Everything!  Literally everything I wear is sewn or knitted by me: from my jeans to jackets, to my socks and tights to my hats, and all my lingerie. The only things I do not make for myself are shoes and handbags.  I figure I can give myself a pass somewhere ;)

What inspires or influences your style?
I am a crazy fashion-loving freak and have little fashion-passion moments every day.  Could be a friend proudly wearing something new, to an outfit in a shop window, to something worn by a character on the TV.  For example, right this second I am watching Elementary (multi-tasking…) and Holmes is wearing a black and white fine gingham shirt with a floral collar.  SO COOL!  If I can find the fabric I might make this for my husband.  I love fashion magazines and soaking up the gorgeous offerings in Australian Vogue is my favourite monthly self-indulgence.  I often get inspiration for colour combinations and design features from editorials.  Pinterest is a pretty great source of style from all over the world too.  I’m following a couple of really stylish ladies whose boards are a constant inspiration.

I look at every day as a chance to play dress-up. How do you play dress-up?
I love to dress up, but then I’m equally happy to dress down too.  Ninety percent of my lifestyle is really very casual; I work from home, plus I look after my family and the garden, I walk my dog.  I still want to look my very best for these activities too, so I put a lot of my sewing efforts into creating little casual skirts, shorts and jeans, and comfy tops and cardigans; all in natural fabrics like cotton, silk, wool and linen..  But we do have a busy social life, and I love to have a selection of elegant stylish dresses and evening coats to wear out to restaurants, parties and the theatre.  The fashion high points in my year are the handful of occasions in a year when I get to wear one of my ball gowns.

How does your passion for sewing influence your style? enable your style? hinder your style?
My passion for sewing has definitely enabled my style, maybe too much; in that I have a far larger wardrobe than if I was buying any clothes!

Does your passion for sewing influence the style of those around you?
Hmmm, I don’t know.  I think my family like to wear the things that I make for them.. they certainly do wear them.  I get a burst of pride and joy when my husband or one of my children comes out wearing something I have made for them.  My husband is kind enough to say that he’s not interested in RTW shirts anymore, because the ones I make him fit well!  He is too kind :)

What about over time: Has your style changed with time? Have your sewing abilities changed with time?
I do feel like my style is always evolving.  A few years ago I lived in lean, longline skirts worn with layered thin Tshirts and little, cropped cardigans.  Then I moved into more short skirts, worn with loose fitting tops.  Then I had a dress phase.

As for sewing abilities, well I sure hope my skills have improved over time!  Having said that, occasionally I find something I made years and years ago and am kinda impressed with the workmanship and perseverance of my old self to finish something meticulously.  Other times I’m appalled at my old self’s lack of technique! But you can sew your entire life, and each and every project is a fresh and stand-alone work in itself, and a new opportunity to learn and to create something interesting and beautiful.  A beautiful and successful outcome is not a given, no matter how many years you’ve been sewing.  I’m always amazed when I read someone saying that they think they’ve learnt it all, after three years of sewing, or something.  Really?!  I’ve been sewing for forty years, and I still feel like I have plenty of room for improvement!  There is always new territory to explore.

Has a change in style caused you to change your sewing abilities? Has a change in sewing abilities caused you to change your style?
Both of these follow on from each other so are both true to some extent.  I start with the inspiration, for me it always starts with an idea of something I want to create and to wear.  I have that picture in my head, and then set about in trying to make it happen, and don’t spend much time worrying about my abilities, or lack thereof.  So then I have to work out how to do it.  Sometimes this leads to new techniques and skills, which is a nice side effect.  It is always the vision of the thing and the passion for creating it keeps me going.

What about in the beginning: Did you learn to sew so that you could have a certain style?
My mother taught me to sew and knit when I was a very little girl, and I have been sewing and knitting every since.  I started out making simple crafts and doll’s clothes, and my first knitting project was a scarf for our cat.  I started making clothes for myself when I was about twelve.  So, sewing and knitting have always been a part of my life, and have constantly played a major role in additions to my wardrobe.  The past few years has seen me really up the ante, when I decide to eliminate rtw [ready-to-wear] from my wardrobe completely and to make everything I could. I made my first pair of jeans in response to this decision, and knitted my first pair of socks, inspired by my mother who has been knitting her own socks for years.  Now I have about a dozen pairs of my hand-knitted socks.  I made my first set of bra and knickers last year and now have seven sets I am very happy with.  I can’t imagine myself going back to store-bought clothes ever again.
Does your style require that you are able to sew?
That’s interesting, I do think that yes; my style now requires that I am able to sew, since I have got so fussy about how I want my clothes to look.  And even back when I was buying my own clothes I would nearly always be dissatisfied with the little things about a rtw item, something I would want to change immediately.  The best way for a fussy dresser to achieve the wardrobe she wants is to make it herself.  Now when I go into a boutique I’m not even tempted to buy, even if I see something really really cool all I can think is how I am going to make something like that, but always just with a few little adjustments here, a few little improvements there.  The technical stuff interests me, and I love to inspect a cool pocket, a unique collar, unusual sculptural folding or draping, interesting seaming or piecing, intricate inner workings etc.  Then it’s off to the fabric store….

Allison of Dream a Little Bigger on Craft and Style

Today in my Sewing and Style guest post series, I’m delighted to share the thoughts of Allison of Dream a Little Bigger. Yes, she’s a crafter (of some totally fabulous crafts, I might interject), but her personal connection between making things and wearing them is just as interesting as any sewist’s! 

Describe your style.
I’ve always said that my style is comfy. Comfy with a side of boho or comfy with a side of preppy or somewhere in between. I’ve been informed, however, that I dress like a hippie (from an honest to goodness ex-hippie).
Ooh! Show me more!

Sonja of Ginger Makes on Sewing and Style

For the latest installment in guest posts from sewing bloggers on their connection between Sewing and Style, I have the spunky Sonja of Ginger Makes. She does a great job of introducing herself, so I’ll just say that I love the fact that her giant smile is a constant accessory to her sewn creations. Without further ado…

Hi, guys!  I’m Sonja, and I blog about sewing, knitting, and, well, making things, over at Ginger Makes.  I live in NYC with my husband and two pugs, and I work in the film/TV industry.  When I’m not sewing or blogging, you can usually find me wandering around the city or snacking (both on a good day!).

I like to describe my style as “tomboy chic”, and that’s only half tongue in cheek!  I spend most of my time in skinny trousers, raglan tees, and slouchy sweaters, but I love having a chance to dress up every now and then and show people that I’m actually a girl!  Because of that, my sewing is split between everyday, tomboy clothes and tailored, girly clothes.  I love to make and sew both kinds of garments, even though I wear everyday clothes, well, every day!

My biggest style influences come from the world of music rather than fashion.  I’m a huge fan of early- to mid-1960′s fashion, and my favorite fashion icon is Mick Jagger.  I LOVE his style– he puts his own spin on classic menswear and always looks sharply tailored, youthful, and cheeky!  My love of slim trousers, immaculately-fitted jackets, and skinny buttondowns can probably all be traced back to my decades-long Jagger obsession (holy crow, can that man wear a jacket!).  I’ve also always loved Francoise Hardy.  She’s tough and has a bit of an edge, but at the same time she looks chic and put together at all times.  I love that she always looked equally confident in a biker jacket or in a minidress.  That’s something I aspire to!  I just generally love all the Brit Invasion style– peacoats, fur-collared trenches, minis with knee-high boots… But in my fantasy life, I’m a backup singer (c’mon, I don’t have to be the star!) in a girl group like The Supremes and I get to wear flashy, tailored sheath dresses all the time… yum!

That said, one of my favorite things about sewing is that I don’t have to commit to one specific style.  I love that I can experiment and explore different versions of myself just by spending a few (OK, sometimes a few dozen) hours at the sewing machine.  Clothes don’t make the gal, but sometimes they can help her tell a story about herself or present herself in a new and different way.  You can get this effect by shopping, of course, but I feel like I can more authentically tell a story about myself with clothing that I’ve made myself.

I didn’t actually learn how to sew because I wanted to dress uniquely, although I’ve always loved to dress a little bit differently.  I sort of fell into it accidentally– my friend convinced me to go to a sewing class with her, and I fell in love with the tactile nature of sewing.  But my first few sewing projects, the things that I made in my first year or so of sewing, were less about exercising my style than about just figuring out how to put a garment together.  Now I finally have a level of confidence at the sewing machine that allows me to think of something I want to wear, figure out how to make it, and then sit down and sew the garment that was in my head!  As a result of this, I feel like all of a sudden I’m dressing in a way that really expresses who I am (instead of the years in high school and college when I wore whatever I could afford that sort of fit me, regardless of whether or not I even liked it).

My style has been split between easy androgynous and ’60′s chic for a long time, and this wasn’t an easy way to dress.  I bought little boys’ tees that made me laugh from truck stops, garage sales, and tourist destinations, and for the other look, I spent lots of time on eBay tracking down cool vintage dresses that may or may not fit once they arrived.  I had a great guy on the Lower East Side of Manhattan that did a killer job altering my internet beauties, but sometimes even he couldn’t make them work for me.  I have some real treasures that I scooped up on eBay and Etsy years ago, but vintage clothing is getting more expensive and harder to find online (and in real life).  Learning how to sew came at the perfect time in my life!  I was having difficulty finding things I liked in thrift shops and online, but I had already abandoned shopping in malls, so my wardrobe was thin and I would show up to things like weddings in outfits that weren’t quite appropriate for the occasion.  Now that I can sew, “What am I gonna wear???” isn’t really a problem so much as a challenge!  I’m so grateful that I can express myself through sewing, and that I can sharpen and define my style more and more each day (unless I don’t want to… then I can make something that’s totally not my style for a change of pace!).  Thanks to sewing, whether I’m wearing a slouchy shirt made out of buffalo check flannel or a snug chartreuse ’60′s sheath, I feel like I look like “me”.

Tempest Devyne of Fanbloomingtastic on Sewing and Style

I’m bring you a continuing series of interviews with sewing bloggers, exploring their connection between their ability to sew and their style. Today, I have for you the fun, funky, silly, awesome Tempest Devyne of FanBloomingtastic. I love that she sews outrageous and yet totally wearable clothing, with such a sense of humour (get it? humour not humor??), and she just hosted the Bowie Sewalong that I’ve been swooning over. Here are her thoughts on how her ability to sew feeds her totally unique style.

Katja of Of Dreams and Seams on Sewing and Style

I’m excited to bring a guest post by Katja of Of Dreams and Seams in my continuing series of guest posts exploring individual connections between sewing and style. I simply adore Katja’s many recycled creations wherein she cuts apart old garments and uses them for imaginative and stylish new clothing and I can’t wait to share her take on sewing and style.

I’m Katja and I have a blog called Of Dreams and Seams. I actually want to include a lot more fashion sketches, which are supposed to be the “Dreams”-part of my blog title, but I never have enough time to give my drawing the attention it first needs before I want to publish it… My “Seams” however can be seen plentiful, recently a lot of recycled garments are popping up, because I love the idea of using resources to their max, I hate causing a lot of trash and my sense for sustainability is growing and growing. Sometimes the clothes I sew are limping behind the clothes I want, when it comes to quality and style, but at least I’m getting better at sewing things I actually wear. That wasn’t the case for quite a while!

Morgan of Crab&Bee on Sewing and Style

I’m delighted to introduce another guest blogger in my Sewing & Style series, the lovely Morgan of Crab&Bee. She and I were introduced through the stashbusting sewalong and I’m delighted to say that I traded her some linen from my stash for a new-to-me dress pattern. I’m excited to see what she eventually does with the linen and I look forward to eventually sewing up the pattern. I appreciate Morgan’s eco-friendly emphasis and the way she seamlessly melds comfort and elegance.

I’m Morgan, and I blog at Crab&Bee where I share my creations and ponder sewing, sustainability and fashion. I started sewing a few years ago and it’s steadily become my favorite hobby.

Describe your style. Describe what you sew. What inspires or influences your style?

Comfort is a huge consideration what I wear and sew. I started out sewing cute dresses but I’ve realized that I wear a lot of tunics, semi-fitted tops and jeans (in mostly natural fibers). I’ve learned that I need to be able to move in a garment or else I won’t wear it. I also seek out silhouettes that work well with my particular figure: broad shoulders, broad back and rectangular shape.

Stylistically, my inspirations are a total mish-mash. Right now, I’m drawn to American heritage looks, Minimalism and textile arts like shibori and embroidery. In terms of deciding what to sew next, my top source of inspiration is what other sewing bloggers make!

Ooh! Read more!

Lauren of American Duchess on Sewing and Style

I’m excited to bring a guest post by Lauren of American Duchess in my continuing series of guest posts exploring individual connections between sewing and style. I love drooling over Lauren’s beautiful historical creations and am excited to hear how sewing enables her love of historical fashion.

My name is Lauren.  I am a designer and historical costumer primarily interested in Western fashions from the 16th century to the early 1960s.  I love to sew everything from bustle gowns to simple Mad Men style dresses.  I also design ladies’ historical footwear and accessories for my company, American Duchess.

Ooh! Read more!

Maddie of Madalynne on Sewing and Style

I’m intrigued by individual style, how someone defines her style, how she finds that style. I’m particularly intrigued by how a sewer’s ability to create her own clothes influences that style. To explore this, I’m posting a series of guest posts from different bloggers who sew, each exploring their individual connection between sewing and style. Thanks to Maddie, one of the first gals I think of when I think style, for her part in this series.

Hi, my name is Maddie Flanigan and I am the blogger behind Madalynne, the cool sewing and pattern making blog. If Steve McQueen was the “King of Cool,” then Madalynne is the “Queen of Cool.” My blog covers everything from how to draft a sloper to interviews with independent pattern makers/designers and what projects I’m working on. For two and a half years, my day job was in the technical design department for a very large fashion company in Philadelphia. Last year, this company took note of my personal blog and asked me to start an Intranet blog that would create a cohesive voice for all their brands. I consider myself one lucky girl to be able to do what I love both day and night (blog and sew), not to mention I receive a stellar discount off some really fancy clothes.
Ooh! Tell me more!

Meg the Grand on Sewing and Style

I’m intrigued by individual style, how someone defines her style, how she finds that style. I’m particularly intrigued by how a sewer’s ability to create her own clothes influences that style. To explore this, I’m going to be posting a series of guest posts from different bloggers who sew, each exploring their individual connection between sewing and style. First up, the wonderful Meg of Meg the Grand. I can’t thank her enough for her insightful and thorough exploration!

Hello all!  I’m Meg from Meg the Grand.  I am an intermediate sewer and beginning knitter, and I love the feeling of making something with my hands … especially if it’s something geeky in nature. Many thanks to the delightful Erin for asking me to guest blog with you lovelies today!!  Erin is a true blue kindred spirit who spreads sunshine in her blog posts.  I, for one, am a huge fan and so honored to be included in this discussion about style!

Ooh! Tell me more!

Guest Post: What is a Technical Designer by Maddie from Madalynne

Today I am super excited to feature a guest post by my friend Maddie from Madalynne. While quite proficient with how to make a garment for myself at home, I know very little about how garment construction works on an industrial level. Maddie does a great job at offering a peek into that world, through the lens of her day job as technical designer. I hope you enjoy her post!

What is a Technical Designer?

­Hi, my name is Maddie Flanigan and I am the blogger behind Madalynne, a cool sewing, pattern making, and lifestyle blog (it ain’t your grandmother’s sewing blog. I promise). Erin and I started chatting a few months ago, in early spring to be exact, about a guest post I recently featured on my blog about sewing garments you’ll actually wear. It’s a curious subject, we all have our own tips, tricks, and methods to sewing the perfect wardrobe, but I was happy to read Erin’s feedback. We chatted a bit longer, via email of course, until the subject of a guest post came about. Me? Guest post? Why I would love to do such a thing! I was especially thrilled at the offer because the subject of the guest post I had in mind was a topic I was dying to discuss. The subject? What is it? Well, it’s a question… what is a technical designer? By day, I work in design for a fashion company of elephantine proportions (meaning it’s a really big company). But I don’t spend my days dreaming and sketching up future 20,000 unit buys. No. I work on the other side of design, the more interesting side in my opinion, the technical side.
In brief, a technical designer handles everything about a garment except the design. The process begins when a designer passes off a sketch of a garment that he or she wants to make (not personally make; a manufacturer eventually produces the garments). In a meeting called a “sketch pass” or “tech set-up”, the designer and the technical designer discuss the particulars of a garment or how it should be made. The hem, the finishes (interior binding vs. merrow), lengths (long sleeve vs. short sleeve), widths (oversized vs. slim fitting) are discussed. The fabric intended to be used for the garment is determined and any needed changes to the sketch of the garment are also made at this time.
The next step is for the technical designer to create what is called a tech pack for each garment. Through technical sketches and simple words, a technical designer communicates to a vendor almost every aspect of how the garment should be made. A key skill of a technical designer is to communicate the construction of the garment as clearly and with as little words as possible. Since everything sent to a vendor is translated, it’s important to keep wording and sketches short and simple. Also in the tech pack are the finished measurements the garment should measure. This is why it is so important that fabric is determined for each garment during the “tech set-up.” Whether the garment will be a woven or knit determines the measurements a technical designer provides (if the garment will be woven, larger measurements are given). If the garment is intended to be a knit, it’s important that a swatch is given because different knits have different amounts and directions of stretch. Once the tech pack is complete, we send it, via email, to a vendor along with a block or sloper we ask the vendor to manipulate, (through slashing, opening, closing, or some other manipulation technique), to create the pattern for the garment. 

A few weeks later, the first sample arrives in house. With the designer and buyers present, the technical designer fits the garment on a live model. Seeing the tangible garment for the first time, the designers and buyers discuss what worked, what didn’t work, and what to correct. It is the technical designers job to then communicate the corrections – with simple words, technical sketches, and pattern corrections – to the vendor. This process of fitting and correcting continues until the garment is “approved for production,” which means it is ready to be mass manufactured and sold in stores. At this point, the technical designer determines the fun stuff – label placement, recommended care instructions, packing, etc. The entire process, from tech set-up to production, takes approximately a year.
There is so much more to the job of a technical designer and I could write a book on their roles but I gave you a brief low-down. In my opinion, technical designers have the fun part of the design job. They’re the engineers, rather than the architects, of a design. It is the technical designer that gets down and dirt to figure out the best way to make a garment. I truly consider myself one lucky gal to be a part of this fun process each and every day.