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Floral Scuba Trapeze Dress

It’s probably a good thing that I don’t go into a daily office job right now because then there would be people (other than my husband) to notice that I’m wearing this dress a lot this winter. Like, a lot a lot. It’s comfortable as all get-out, it’s warm, it’s my exact winter palette, it works great with leggings (I’m working on a leggings pattern and I’ve gotta make sure the samples are comfortable to wear!), and did I mention how comfortable it is? I drafted the pattern myself off of my t-shirt block (all it takes is a few vertical slits from hem to bust that are spread evenly) but the Closet Case Patterns Ebony is obviously pretty similar if you don’t want to do any drafting yourself. I wanted to have a swoopy hem with some interesting shape to it, but the underside of the scuba is white …

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Evelyn’s Winter Playsuit (Ottobre 7. Marsupial Autumn 4/2017)

Last year (Evie’s first winter) we had this great quilted suit for her that we bundled her up in every time we went outside (which was at least a couple times a day for our regular walks). I wanted to repeat the idea this winter but it needed to have more mobility since she’s no longer a cute little blob that sits patiently in our arms or stroller or carrying pack (that is admittedly a bit of a revisionist history as she’s never been patient), she’s a full blown toddler, still very cute but o.m.g. all over the place. When it started to turn to fall I started sewing a small stack of fall/winter clothes for Evie. I picked out “7. Marsupial” from Ottobre Autumn 4/2017 and went up a size since it was meant to be a sweatsuit and I knew she’d need some more ease to fit over …

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Picture Books to Give to Kids of Sewing Lovers

It’s no secret that I’m sewing obsessed and probably no surprise that I’d love for my daughter to grow up the same. I also love to read and am so excited that my biscuit loves our reading time too (in her own little reading corner in her own little room). I’ve started collecting picture books for her that have to do with sewing to combine the two loves. One awesome thing about picture books is that they entertain kids for many, many years – from being read to to reading themselves. Maybe you have a munchkin of your own and want ideas for books to get from the library or maybe you’re looking for gift ideas for the kiddos of your friends and family. These are all books about sewing that I’ve found and would recommend! (Want even more ideas for kids of textile lovers? Check out my list of …

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Fall/Winter Sewing Plans

It’s hard for me to plan out too much of what I’m going to sew as I’m often distracted by shiny objects. And there’s always way more ideas (and fabric and patterns) than time. But I thought that perhaps this year I would assemble a short list of things I would like to sew and wear this fall/winter so that I can retain a bit of focus and flesh out some gaps, knowing that I’ll interject shiny objects in between. High on the list is another pair of jeans. I’m finding I much prefer to wear mid to high waist pants in my post-baby body rather than the low-rise I preferred before which leaves me a grand total of 1 pair of jeans in my closet that I like. I have quite a collection of 70’s jeans patterns which all have the rise I’m looking for but these seemed like …

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Katie’s Vintage Inspired Wedding Dress

This summer I had the pleasure of making Katie’s wedding dress. I don’t do a lot of custom sewing these days and I generally avoid wedding dresses because drama, stress, and drama. But I made an exception for Katie and I’m so very glad I did. My step-mom is friends with Katie’s mom. My step-mom told me that the daughter of a friend was a lovely, laid-back woman who was planning a small garden wedding and wanted to use part of her grandmother’s wedding dress to elevate a ready-to-wear dress she had already purchased. She wanted a dress that had a bit of vintage flair that would flatter her tall frame. How could I say no? We were working on a pretty short timescale (less than 2 months!) so I didn’t have time to construct a whole dress. Fortunately, Katie had found a ready-to-wear dress that fit her. It was …

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Handmade Gift Ideas for Sewists

For those of us that are sewing obsessed, it’s pretty easy for family, friends, and significant others to know that something sewing themed is the way to go for a holiday gift. But sometimes a little more guidance than that is necessary – you don’t want to end up being gifted a shade of fabric you’ll never wear or a pattern that’s just not your style, even if it comes with the best intentions. I’ve put together a selection of sewing themed gift ideas that you’ll love no matter what your style is! All the images will take you to handmade versions on Etsy (affiliate links) so you can support makers just like yourself! Tailor’s ham: Tailor’s hams are an essential tool for every garment sewist. I seem to collect them (how can I pass up pretty vintage hams at the thrift store!?!) and am always happy to add another …

Pink & Black Sporty Watson Bra

You know what I find really interesting? My current desire to wear unstructured bras. Before pregnancy I mostly wore foam-cup bras that helped to give the illusion of curves to my torso, to balance and soften my otherwise angular and hippy body. While pregnant and shortly after I only wore soft cup bralettes since my boobs were huge (to me) and my body was so covered in curve that no extra curve was necessary. But now that I’m back down in cup and body size I’m no longer as interested in the foam cups I once felt necessary. I’m more drawn to soft cup bras. I don’t really know how to unpack this new desire. Is it because my post-baby body is softer even at the same weight as before so I don’t need to add more softness? Is it because I’m more comfortable in my own body than ever …

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Folkwear Afghan Nomad Dress

This dress needed to be sewn. I don’t know why. I have so much plenty of other fabric calling my name. I have a giant list of sewing projects that range from very necessary (it would be really nice to have more than 2 long sleeve shirts now that cold weather is here) to completely impractical (though I actually take offense at myself for saying this because I do wear every weird thing I sew so therefore it’s not really impractical is it? I digress). This was not on my list. Until I woke up one morning and needed to make it. I don’t actually know why but it had to happen. So this dress is what I sewed over the last couple of weeks. The pattern is Afghani Nomad Dress (now called Afghan Nomad Dress to be in keeping with modern terminology) from Folkwear patterns and oddly enough I’ve …

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Ultraviolet Sweatshirt Hack

Fall is most definitely here. I adore fall. I love putting on rain boots and stomping through puddles. I love apple cakes and spiced cider. I love cuddly sweatshirts. Though I do have one cuddly-but-also-fashionable sweatshirt, there is certainly room in my closet for more. This Ultraviolet Tee hacked into a sweatshirt is a welcome addition! It’s pretty easy to draft your own sleeves to add on to the Ultraviolet Tee to make your own long-sleeve shirt or sweatshirt. Since the tee pattern has a short cut-on sleeve already, it’s really simple to just add length to the bottom. Since the shirt is a boxy style, boxy (i.e. easy!) sleeves are a well suited addition. This is what my sleeve looks like. You can make the wrist narrower or wider, depending on your style preference. It’s likely you’ll want them to be shorter (as I have very long arms). Remember …

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How to Sew French Seams

Haven’t sewn French seams before? You might be wondering: What is a French seam? A French seam is a seam finish that makes a narrow seam that fully encloses the seam allowance in the seam. Why use a French seam? It’s a great seam to use on woven fabrics that are sheer, delicate, or prone to fraying. It’s subtle, unlike a serged seam. Can you sew a French seam on a curve? Yes! Though you will find that the narrower your finished seam is the less it will pull on the curve and that the softer your curve is the easier it is to sew the French seam. How wide is a French seam allowance? A French seam is sewn in two steps and involves trimming of the seam allowance so you can start with whatever seam allowance you want and finish with a French seam of whatever size you …

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Denim Shorts with Patch Pockets

I’ve never really been a shorts kinda gal. I’d rather rock a miniskirt. But as I get used to sewing for my post-baby crotch, shorts seemed like a good place to start. No, this isn’t the start of an overshare, but rather a discussion of the bane of many sewists existence – the dreaded crotch curve. Pre-baby I had quite a flat stomach and a full (though low) derrière but eventually worked out a pretty good fitted pants block that accounted for my body’s unique shape. And then I had a baby. And now I have no butt and a definite curve to my belly. So it’s back to the drawing board on crotch fitting. I figured shorts would waste less fabric if it was a flop. And of course it’s been summer so shorts seem fitting (haha, that’s a pun). I didn’t make these shorts skin tight as I …

5 Tips for Sewing a Lace Back Shirt

If you’re wondering how to sew a shirt with lace fabric in the back (like this example) or really any garment that uses lace for part of the garment, then I’ve got a few tips for you! This example is an Ultraviolet Tee sewn out of a lightweight knit front with a loosely woven lace back, but you can use these same tips to combine lace and woven or knit fabric in so many different creative ways. 1. Consider your pattern. You’ll find it easiest to sew and get the cleanest results if you select a pattern that has the fewest seamlines in the section that you would like to be lace. Each seamline is a place where you need to finish or hide the edges of the lace (since you can see through the lace to see the seam allowance on the inside) so the fewer times you need …

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A Very Me Garment: Denim Mini Skirt

This blog post isn’t really about showing off my awesome sewing since the denim miniskirt I hacked out of an old pair of my husband’s worn out jeans took me less than an hour to sew. But I do think it’s worth sharing since the skirt feels so very me. I’ve been trying to re-figure out what exactly my style is for quite a while now. I feel like my strong sense of self identity was eroded away as my self-confidence and happiness were eroded away over too many years in graduate school. And then I started to figure some things out but then I had a baby which meant dramatic changes to my body. So I’m (mostly) back to a place of feeling self-confident and comfortable in my body, but my wardrobe hasn’t caught up. I went through the curated closet and I now have a much more cohesive …

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How to Sew a Neckline with Bias Tape

Bias tape is a lovely way to cleanly finished necklines on woven garments. They aren’t hard to sew, they just require some attention to detail and I’ll walk you through those details step by step! These same instructions can be used to finish any garment opening so if you are wondering how to sew an armhole with bias tape or how to sew a hem with bias tape, keep reading! If the pattern you are using doesn’t have a template for your bias strip or instructions on how long to cut the bias tape, carefully measure the opening on your garment. Remember to measure on your seamline (which in this case will be 1/4″ in from the edge of the fabric) and not on the edge of your fabric. Use the very edge of your tape measure to measure the distance instead of laying it flat. Cut your fabric the …

Boho Kimono (Ultraviolet Tee Hack)

The era of my life where summers were all about music festivals is over, but I hope I’ll never be too old to enjoy setting up some portable speakers and having a private dance party in my garden. Of course one must dress for the occasion (even if it’s a rather small affair), so I whipped up this little kimono style topper using a hack of my Ultraviolet Tee pattern. I used a lightweight floral print poly that I originally intended to be for purse linings (and has actually lined a few Presidio Purses I’ve made) but it was the lightest floatiest thing I had in my stash and it just seemed to fit the bill. I figured it wouldn’t get too sweaty since the topper is so loose and open. To hack your own, take the Front pattern piece and draw a line straight from the edge of the …

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Simple Summer Linen Dress

Isn’t it delightful when a few different long-percolating ideas can come together? I’ve had this lovely embroidered linen in my stash for a bit. It was a gift from a friend who bought it for me at Mood when she was in New York last year (or the year before?). She was texting me photos while she was there and I thought it was just to share the excitement but much to my delight one of the cuts of fabric made it my way! I knew that it needed to be a simple garment since pattern matching was not going to be possible given the irregularity of the embroidery and the amount of fabric I had. After releasing my Ultraviolet Tee I brainstormed a list of ways I could hack the pattern and turning it into a dress was definitely on the list. I browsed through my wall of fabric …

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My Sewing Room

My sewing room. My office. My studio. Whatever I call it, here she is. It’s so nice to have my own space and now, two years since we moved here, I think it’s pretty close to done. Of course I’m always adding new bits and bobs and shuffling small things around, but the bones are in place I feel really good about my own little corner of our home. I though it would be fun to show it off! Starting with facing my sewing table. I often have another machine (or two) up on the table but you’ll almost always find the Pfaff I bought in high school and my old serger. Both are due for an upgrade, but they still work. I was pretty excited about finding this drawer set at the thrift store. A quick coat of yellow spray paint and it’s good to go and great for …

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Workout Clothes for Boxing

I’ve taken up boxing. This winter was a dark time for me and starting in early spring I knew I needed to do what I could to help myself get out of it. One of the things that I know helps me when I’m struggling with depression is to be more physically active. Of course the worse I’m feeling the less I want to exercise, so I knew I needed to find an exercise class that I would enjoy to help give me that extra push since I just didn’t see getting into a routine again on my own. There aren’t a whole lot of options since I live on an island, but I knew there was a small studio I liked since I had enjoyed classes there before I got pregnant. There was one class that wasn’t full and was scheduled when I regularly have childcare so I decided …

Lengthening the Ultraviolet Tee (High Drama Option 2)

With just a little bit more work (than the standard easy way to lengthen the Ultraviolet Tee) you can have a shirt that is high drama. By keeping the side the same length but lengthening the scoop on the front and back, you get belly and bum coverage with quite a bit of sexy sass. To make the high-drama lengthening, draw a new lengthen line through the middle of the curve at the bottom (instead of using the one that is included with the pattern) (Step 1). Cut the Front and Back pieces through the line and separate them your desired length (the example shown is 2-3″) (Step 2). Redraw the curve by gently connecting the point an inch above the cut to an inch below the cut (Step 3). Remember that you use the circle to match the side seams and you want the center front of your shirt to …

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Ultraviolet Tee Testers

The most satisfying and inspiring part of any pattern release is seeing it made up by other women! It is so fun to see a collection of different women using different fabric and making different design decisions, all from the same pattern. I was fortunate to have an amazing, inspiring, creative assortment of women that tested the Ultraviolet Tee and I’m honored to share some of their gorgeous creations and their thoughts on the pattern! (Extra special thanks to the first three ladies below for being my cover models!) “Love this pattern and it’s a welcome addition to my wardrobe! Oversized crop top that I can throw on with some jeans and still look put together and a bit sexy.” (Find Martha on Instagram) “I would make this again! It is relatively quick and easy, so I would definitely recommend it.” (Find Mary on Instagram) “The mold is simple, minimalist …

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Introducing the Ultraviolet Tee

The Ultraviolet Tee will be an everday staple of your summer like the UV rays from summer sunshine. Oversized with short cut-on sleeves, the shirt can be sewn from knits or wovens. View A is slightly cropped and has a curved hem that meets sharp and high on the side and has a subtle high-low shape from front to back. Wear over a camisole, with high-waisted shorts, or enjoy showing a little peek of skin as you move around. View B is standard shirt length and has a straight hem. Available in 2 cup size options: A-C (dartless) or D-F (darted/gathered) and with an optional pocket. Fully illustrated step-by-step instructions provide separate construction information for wovens and knits. What features make the Ultraviolet Tee special? Size range from 0-24 (high bust of 32″-52″) Two separate cup size ranges (A-C or D-F) Two different hem options (curved or straight) Separate pattern …

How to Sew the Soft V Neck on the Laminaria Swimsuit

The soft V neck on the Laminaria Swimsuit is really easy to sew and gives you results that are almost as nice as the sharp V neck, so if you’re not looking to give yourself an extra challenge, this is the way to go. Cut your elastic to the length described in the instructions. Mark the center of the elastic with a pen. You can go ahead and write with a ball-point pen or permanent marker (instead of a wash-away marker) since it won’t be seen in the finished suit. Pin the elastic to the inside of the suit. I like to use pins horizontally so I can take them out as I sew. The elastic is the same length as the fabric here so no need to stretch or gather anything. Make sure that your center mark aligns with the center of the V. The exact position of the …

How to Sew Narrow Swimsuit Straps

There’s something ever so satisfying about a crisp little spaghetti strap. Did you know that narrow swimsuit straps are actually really easy to sew? It’s true! Both 1/4″ and 3/8″ spaghetti straps for swimsuits are deceptively easy because we can sew them around the right size elastic for crisp perfection! Start by cutting a strip of your swimsuit fabric that is 1.5″ wide (works for either 1/4″ or 3/8″ elastic. You can use the same technique for wider elastic to make wider straps though you will need wider fabric strips to start). You can sew a single strap that is twice the length of your finished strap and cut it in half when you are done. Align your elastic to one long edge of your strap on the wrong side of the fabric. You can pin it in place before sewing if you prefer or just feed it carefully as …

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How to Sew the Laminaria Swimsuit with a Mesh Insert

When I was designing the Laminaria Swimsuit I intentionally placed the contrast insets such that they could be sewn in mesh without the swimsuit becoming scandalous. The easiest way to do so is to use mesh for the inserts in View A and use a mesh or skin color lining. However if you take the easy approach your seam allowances may be visible at the edges of your mesh. If you want to guarantee that the mesh looks as clean as possible there are a few changes that you need to make to cutting and construction. They’re not technically challenging but they do require understanding the suit construction so I’d strongly recommend sewing the suit with a standard inset following the normal directions once before attempting mesh. Start by cutting View A out of your fabric using mesh for the inserts. Instead of a full lining, you will cut the lining out of …

How to Sew the Sharp V Neck on the Laminaria Swimsuit

The sharp V neck on the Laminaria swimsuit is a bit tricky to sew. I recommend trying it at least once on a scrap of fabric before you do it on your actual swimsuit. If you find this too hard or don’t want to bother you can always sew the soft V neck instead! So why are we even doing all these weird fussy steps? It effectively adds a seam allowance to the center front V so that you can sew elastic to the edge and turn it to the inside without stretching the center front. The first step is to stabilize the center of the V. If you already basted the body to the lining along the center front that should be enough. If you haven’t, sew for a few inches on either side of the center V 1/4″ from the edge using a straight stitch and pivoting at the …

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Evelyn Rose’s Nursery

As much as I might have had fun gathering inspirational images of the perfect nursery while I was pregnant, when it came down to it, I didn’t have the energy for much of any follow through. And since then? There’s always been something higher on the priority list. But that’s okay. Evie’s got a cute little nursery and while it may not make it into any magazines, it makes her happy, and that’s what matters. Of course it only took me a year to finish it. Ha! You’d think it wouldn’t take so long since the room is tiny. It’s actually just the second closet in our bedroom but it’s been perfect for use as a nursery. (Evie will move downstairs to an actual bedroom at some point in the future.) In my defense, the room has been essentially done since Evie was a couple of months old. There was …

How to Attach the Laminaria Swimsuit Straps

The Laminaria Swimsuit really can be sewn by a confident beginner sewist. I have a selection of photo and video tutorials to give an added boost of confidence. Today, I’ll show you all the steps involved in attaching the straps to the front and back of the suit. I’m showing the steps out of order but clustered by back and front strap attachment so that you can understand the process to the finished swimsuit which should hopefully make the steps intuitive when you reach them in the instructions. Remember, there are 3 options for how you attach your straps. If you want them to go straight in the back or cross in the back, start by attaching the straps to the back of the suit. If you want halter ties, skip over the back attachment steps and only attach them at the front. BACK: In steps 36/37 we pin and baste the …

Shortening/Lengthening the Laminaria Swimsuit

One of the coolest things about sewing your own swimsuit is that you can make the torso the right length. As a tall gal, 1 piece swimsuits have always been my nemesis as there’s nothing worse than rocking a wedgie every time you put on your swimsuit. The Laminaria swimsuit has printed shorten/lengthen lines on the pattern pieces to make shortening and lengthening easy. How can you tell if you need to add/remove length from your swimsuit? The size chart tells you the crotch length that the pattern is designed for which is average for an average height woman (5’6″). If you need more/less length in ready-two-wear swimsuits, you’ll probably want more/less in this swimsuit. However, the only way to tell for sure is to make a muslin out of the same fabric that you will be using for your final suit as small differences in horizontal and especially vertical stretch …

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How to Print a Layered PDF Sewing Pattern

From here on out, SeamstressErin Designs patterns are being published as layered pdfs (wahoo!). What does this mean? It means that each size is on a different layer so that you can select only the size you want to sew for printing. You can also select a cluster of sizes in case you need to grade between sizes or even two totally different sizes if you want to print out your size and your best friend’s size at the same time! Why bother, you might be asking? Of course you can still print all of the sizes like before (pattern pieces are still nested). But you might find it handy to print fewer sizes at a time because the markings on nested patterns can get a bit hard to discern, especially on small pattern pieces. Start by opening your pattern in Adobe Reader. (There are many different programs that open …

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Rainbow Raindrops Waterproof Minoru Raincoat

I live in the Seattle area. You may not have heard this about Seattle, but it rains a fair bit here (ha!). In fact we broke rain records yet again this year so a raincoat is a timely project. Of course I finished it just in time for May flowers instead of April showers (or all winter long incessant drizzle as the case may be). But I can promise you that this raincoat will be getting plenty of wear over the years. Though I didn’t finish many projects this winter, I really took my time with what I did sew to make them as perfect as possible with deluxe fabrics and this coat is no exception (my wool & silk Fumettere and quilted velvet puffer vest being prime examples of what I mean). I used Sewaholic’s Minoru pattern (that I’ve had and been meaning to sew since it came out …